How to read an INCI list without panicking?

What is that list that looks like a pharmaceutical leaflet on the back of your cosmetics? Tocopherol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic Triglyceride… You’d think it was chemistry. And yet, understanding an INCI list means taking back control over your beauty choices. Here is a simple, no-panic guide.

INCI, what does that mean?

INCI = International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.
It is the mandatory and standardized list of ingredients, in descending order of concentration.

👉 These are the first 5 ingredients that make up the majority of the product.

1. Look at the first 5 ingredients

These are the heart of the formula.
If you see at the top of the list:

• Water / Aqua

• Vegetable oil (Juglans Regia Oil = walnut oil)

• Glyceryl Stearate (natural texturizer)
  → You’re on to something good.

⚠️ On the other hand, if “Parfum”, “Alcohol Denat.” or “PEG-xx” appear in the top 5, be cautious if you have sensitive skin.

2. Don't panic at the chemical names

Some names are intimidating… wrongly so.

• Tocopherol = Vitamin E

• Cetearyl Alcohol = mild fatty alcohol (not drying)

• Coco-Caprylate = mild coconut derivative

💡 A complicated word is not a bad ingredient. Research its function or origin.

3. Identify the ingredients to avoid (for sensitive skin)

A non-exhaustive list to avoid at the top of the list:

• Parfum (non-natural)

• BHT, BHA

• EDTA

• Synthetic dyes

• Mineral oils (Petrolatum, Paraffinum liquidum)
  
  

4. Labels: a help… not a guarantee

Yes, an organic label is reassuring.
But some labeled products contain highly active essential oils, which are poorly tolerated by sensitive skin.

🧠 Always check the INCI, even with an organic logo.

Reading an INCI is not a science reserved for pros. It’s a habit to pick up, a tool to buy better.
And at Novëm, we make it easier for you with clear formulas and real ingredients.